WOMEN, SKIN HEALTH AND BEAUTY
overview of some makeup myths. and the important facts about make- up safety youll want to know. ... pat makeup onto different areas of your skin so the ...
women,
skin health
& beauty
contents
• introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
• skin health & wellness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
• nutrition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
• exercise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
• environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
• The Facts About Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
• stress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
• Finding the Right Skin Care Professional . . . . . . . 11
• skin health ages & stages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
• makeup myths & facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
• How to Read a Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
• makeup ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
• Choosing the Right Products for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
• Finding the Right Products for Your Skin Type . . . . . 21
• resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
women, skin health
& beauty
f
Face it, we love our beauty products. Since we were little girls, we’ve had fun
experimenting with colors, brands and formulations. But just how much do
we know about them—about how they’re made, how safe they are, what’s
right for us? Most of us are more likely to pick up a new cream or blush
because of the pretty packaging, the color or the promise than whether it’s
right for us and for our skin. And our skin is unique, no matter what its
tone, color or age. Plus, that uniqueness changes
over time. Just consider the major changes your skin
undergoes between your 20s and your 50s. Yet
when’s the last time you switched moisturizers?
Not to worry. In the next few pages, we’re going to tell you everything
you’ve wanted to know to keep your skin healthy and glowing—whatever
your age. We’ll explain how nutrition and exercise contribute to your skin’s
health, identify the best products for you and explain how to read makeup
labels. We’ll even expose makeup myths that may have kept you from look-
ing your best.
Why does all this matter? Because your skin reflects just about
everything about you, inside and out. If you’re sick, tired
or stressed, it’s reflected in the tone, color and condition of
your skin. Luckily, the opposite is also true. That’s why
your skin is said to “glow” when you’re terrifically happy
and healthy. So it’s important to learn about your skin and how to care for it.
Then, you can ensure that the “outside you” truly reflects the “inside you.”
How you look on the outside reflects
how healthy you are on the inside.
1
skin health
t
The key to healthy skin lies beyond which soap you use. It depends on what
you eat, whether you exercise, how much stress you’re under
and even the kind of environment in which you live and work.
All of these things affect how fast
your skin ages, and thus how it will
or changes a copper roof from
reddish gold to blue-green, so you
look,by influencing certain processes can just imagine the way it can
that lead to oxidation and inflamma- affect your skin. Sun, smoking, air
tion—your skin’s enemies. It sounds pollution and poor diet all speed up
complicated, but it really production of these free
is not. radicals.
Basically, complex chem- Luckily, your body also
ical processes in your produces antioxidants,
body produce unstable molecules whose job it
molecules called free is to sweep up those
radicals. Think of them free radicals before they
as Skin Enemy No. 1. Left to their can do any serious harm. How you
own devices, they go on to damage take care of yourself—including
otherwise healthy cells in a process what you eat—can increase produc-
called oxidation. This is the same tion of these valuable molecules, lit-
process that turns an apple brown erally saving your skin.
Free radicals are Skin Enemy No. 1.
2
& wellness
nutrition
wWomen have been using foods as facial treatments for cen-
turies, making masks of egg whites and olive oil, putting
cucumbers over their eyes to reduce swelling. But did you
know that the food you put in your mouth can affect the
health of your skin more than anything you could put on your face?
Although studies find certain indi- called advanced glycosylation end-
vidual foods can help you maintain products, or AGEs, those free radicals
healthy skin, your overall diet—as mentioned earlier. Fibers stiffen,
well as your weight—matters most. skin loses it elasticity and you
For instance, if you’re overweight become more vulnerable
and/or you eat a diet high in processed to wrinkling, sagging and
foods, including white bread, cook- damage from ultraviolet
ies, ice cream and packaged dinners, (UV) light.
and low in fiber and fresh fruits and
vegetables, you have a higher risk But eat a varied and
of developing a condition called nutritious diet, and it’s
insulin resistance, which can lead to amazing what can hap-
diabetes. pen to your skin. In
one study, researchers
In this condition, insulin, a hormone from Monash University
that “unlocks” the cell so glucose, or in Australia found people
fuel, can get in, doesn’t work very who ate the most fruits, veg-
well. Thus, all this glucose builds etables and fish had the least
up in your bloodstream instead amount of wrinkles. However, the
of disappearing into cells researchers found, diets high in satu-
where it’s supposed to go. rated fat, including meat, butter and
This, in turn, damages skin. full-fat dairy, as well as soft drinks,
How? By reacting with the cakes, pastries and potatoes (called
protein fiber network (i.e., “high-glycemic” foods), increased
collagen and other pro- the likelihood of skin wrinkling.
teins) that make skin Coincidentally, these high-glycemic
resilient. This reaction cre- foods are also implicated in insulin
ates harmful waste products resistance.
3
skin health
So, if you want to follow a skin- Tea. Tea, particularly green tea, is an
healthy diet, make sure you pack excellent source of antioxidants
your diet full of these nutrients: called polyphenols. That may be
why one Arizona study found that
Vitamins E and C. Studies find
the more hot tea people drank (par-
these vitamins can help protect your
ticularly tea with lemon) the less
skin from the harmful effects of the
likely they were to develop squa-
sun, particularly in supplement
mous cell skin cancer.
form. Meanwhile, vitamin C is
a valuable nutrient in collagen Vitamin A. Another powerful
synthesis, the protein that antioxidant, vitamin A forms the
helps hold skin together and give basis for a slew of pharmaceutical
it tone. If you do supplement, don’t and over-the-counter skin products
exceed 400 IU of vitamin E because that contain retinoids. One study
it could increase the risk of bleed- found a strong connection between
ing. Best food sources: Vegetable oils, vitamin A levels in the blood (an
margarine, eggs, fish, whole-grain indicator of the amount in the diet)
cereals and dried beans for vitamin E; and skin dryness; the more vitamin
citrus fruits, berries, potatoes, toma- A, the moister the skin. You shouldn’t
toes, sweet and hot peppers and supplement with vitamin A, and it’s
leafy green vegetables for vitamin C. hard to get enough via food, but it’s
easy to get vitamin A’s precursor—
Essential fatty acids. Several
beta-carotene—which is converted
studies find that the amount of poly-
to vitamin A in your intestine.
and monounsaturated fats, particu-
Best food sources: Orange, red and
larly omega-3 fatty acids, in your diet
yellow fruits and vegetables such as
can minimize sun and aging damage
carrots, sweet potatoes, tomatoes and
to your skin. Best food sources: Cold-
cantaloupe, and green leafy vegeta-
water fish, such as salmon, mackerel
bles such as spinach and broccoli.
and tuna. For healthy mono fats, stick
with olive oil and nuts.
A healthy diet is critical to healthy skin.
Q: How important is water to skin health?
It’s critical. The amount of liquid you drink directly affects the health of your
skin. One sign of dehydration is if you press on your skin with your finger and
it doesn’t spring back. Aim for eight to 10 glasses of water a day. As long
as your urine is a clear or light straw color, you’re getting enough liquid.
4
& wellness
exercise
yYou know the glow your skin takes on after a brisk walk
outside or a tough aerobics class? Generally, that’s related to
perspiration, which is one way your body gets rid of toxins.
But exercise does much Exercise is also an
more than flush impuri- important way to
ties out of your skin. It manage stress, as
also promotes produc- you’ll see on page 10.
tion of sebum, or oil, If you’re exercising
your skin’s natural mois- outdoors, though,
turizer, and enhances remember to protect
blood flow to the skin. your face and body
That’s important because blood car- from UVA and UVB
ries oxygen and valuable nutrients rays by wearing a
that help maintain skin health. moisturizer with sun-
screen protection. You
Plus, regular physical activity helps don’t want to “undo”
you maintain a healthy weight and all the good of that
keep insulin resistance at bay. workout.
Q: Everyone talks about exercise and
physical activity, but I can’t find the
time. What can I do?
The beauty of physical activity is that little bits add up to big
benefits. Try adding more activity into each day little by little.
Park your car at the far end of the parking lot when you go
shopping. Take the stairs instead of the elevator. Get off the
bus or subway a couple of stops early and walk the rest of
the way. Carry your groceries into the house one bag at a
time. Small steps can increase the amount of movement
you get and the amount of calories you burn.
5
skin health
environment
i
If you’ve ever had to slather on the moisturizer after a cross-
country airplane flight or suffered a breakout while visiting
a large urban city, then you know firsthand the way the
environment can affect your skin.
It’s never too late to quit smoking. Quit today, and
your skin will show the health benefits tomorrow.
Air pollution, the dry, recirculated air of
an airplane, smoking and, of course, the
sun are all enemies of skin health.They
increase the production of free radi-
cals, strip antioxidants from your skin
and intensify the effects of aging.
Smoking, for instance, constricts blood
vessels, reducing blood flow to the
skin. It also depletes levels of valuable
antioxidant vitamins like vitamin A,
increasing damage to the elastin, the
elastic fibers in your skin that provide a
healthy tone. Just the smoke curling up
from the cigarette can damage skin as
Q: How often should I be screened for skin cancer?
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends annual screenings, the
American Cancer Society recommends annual screenings after age 40, and every
three years between ages 20 and 39, and the U.S. Preventive Services Task Force says
there is insufficient evidence to recommend for or against routine skin examinations.
Confused? Don’t be. There’s no controversy over the fact that the earlier skin cancers
are identified, the better the outcome. So talk to your health care provider about your
risks for skin cancer and how often you should be screened.
6
& wellness
much as any other pollutant. In fact, Simply sitting near a
studies find that people who smoke window, driving your
have significantly more wrinkles at car and walking out-
an earlier age than those who don’t. side also expose you
to the harmful rays
of the sun, and these
are all activities in
which you’re much less likely to
wear sunscreen.
No wonder, then, that skin cancer is
the most common cancer in the
United States, with more than one
million skin cancers diagnosed each
year. Overall, one in six Americans
will develop skin cancer at some
point in their lives.
The reality is that there is no such
Of course, the greatest damage to
thing as a healthy tan—unless it’s
your skin occurs from the ultraviolet
one that comes out of a bottle.
rays of the sun. Over time, the sun,
like smoking, damages elastin and
collagen, leading to the formation of
fine lines and wrinkles. Most of the
damage occurs in your childhood
years—it just doesn’t show up until
middle age.
And it’s not just soaking up the rays
on the beach that does the damage.
Q: Is it safer to get a tan in a
tanning parlor than on the beach?
No. There is no such thing as a safe tan. A tan is really your skin’s way of shouting out
that it’s been damaged. In fact, UVA rays in tanning booths not only inflict damage
similar to sunlight, but they are up to 20 times more intense than natural sunlight.
7
skin health
The Facts About Sunscreen
The higher the SPF (sun protection factor)
the better. That’s not only because of the increased
protection higher SPF sunscreens provide, but because
most people don’t use nearly enough to begin with.
However, the SPF only indicates protection provided
against UVB rays—not the invisible, ultraviolet-A rays
that can also affect skin health and hasten the aging
process.That’s why you need a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
The more the better. You need to apply at least a shot glass’s worth of
sunscreen every couple of hours you’re in the sun. In fact, you should reap-
ply your sunscreen every two to four hours.That means a six-ounce bottle of
sunscreen should last just a couple of visits to the beach—not all summer.
UVB protection isn’t enough. Early versions of sunscreen only pro-
tected against UVB rays, but both UVB and UVA rays contribute to skin cancer.
To find a sunscreen that protects against both, look for Parsol 1789, also
called avobenzone, zinc oxide or titanium dioxide on the ingredients list. Stay
posted for what dermatologists are calling the superpower of sunscreen
8
& wellness
protection—a chemical called mex-
oryl, which has an SPF of 60 and pro-
vides much greater protection
against UVA rays than anything else
on the market. Available in Europe
and Australia, it is under considera-
tion for approval by the U.S. Food
and Drug Administration (FDA).
SPF has nothing to do with
how long you can stay in
the sun. Studies find that people
think the higher the SPF rating, the
longer they can stay out in the sun.
That’s simply not true. While higher
numbered products (SPF-40, for
example) do provide more protec-
tion, using sunscreen doesn’t pre-
vent all the possible harmful effects
of the sun. Plus, few people use sun-
screen the right way—a full ounce
every couple of hours, more if
you’ve been swimming or sweating.
You need more
than sunscreen to
protect your skin
from the sun. You
also need a hat,protective
clothing and a time limit
for your stay in the sun.
9
skin health
stress
w
Whether you’re stressed about your job,a family member’s health,
a crumbling marriage or your first child going off to college,
stress has a sneaky way of showing up on your face and skin.
Think of it as your body’s way of communicating what’s going
on inside to the outside world. There’s even a name for it: psychodermatology.
The stress in your life turns up on your face.
For instance, studies find that stress the way it reacts to stress. Short
triggers 62 percent of psoriasis bursts of stress—like those from a
episodes (an inflammatory skin con- good workout—can improve your
dition), with flares occurring within skin. But, when you’re exposed to
days of the emotional upset. Most chronic stress—stress that just
hyperhidrosis episodes (in which you won’t stop—or a lot of stress all at
sweat excessively) are related to once, your immune system can get
stress, and 94 percent of episodes in overloaded. The result? Negative
women with rosacea—a skin condition effects on your skin.
marked by excessive redness and bumps
So it’s important you learn to recog-
on the face—have an emotional trigger.
nize the stressors in your life and
Thus, you can see the very strong modify your reactions to them.
mind/body connection that exists Relaxation techniques, biofeedback
between our emotions and our skin and breathing training can help you
health. The connection is probably cope better with life stresses and
related to the immune system and reduce their effects on your skin.
Q: I’ve read that certain medications
can affect my skin. Is this true?
Absolutely. Numerous drugs—prescription and over-the-counter—as well as herbs and
nutritional supplements can affect your skin, by drying it out (as with certain antihista-
mines), making it more sensitive to sunlight (as with some antibiotics and the herbal
antidepressant St. John’s Wort), improving acne (as with oral contraceptives) or wors-
ening acne (as with certain fertility and other hormone drugs). Always ask your health
care professional or pharmacist about any possible skin-related side effects you
should be aware of with any medications you take.
10
& wellness
Finding the Right
Skin Care Professional
A 2001 survey by the American Society for Dermatologic
Surgery (ASDS) found that about 45 percent of dermatologic
surgeons reported an increase in the number of patients they
saw who needed corrective treatment for burns, splotching, irreversible pig-
mentation and scarring resulting from various medical procedures performed
by estheticians, cosmetic technicians and employees of physicians without
appropriate physician supervision.
Make sure you’re seeing the right skin-care professional for the right reason.
And always look for physicians who are board-certified in their specialty.
This means they’ve passed an intense examination and take continuing
education courses to maintain their knowledge and skills.
Skin-Care Professional Reason to Visit Special Training
Dermatologist Prevention and treatment of After medical school and intern-
skin, hair, nail conditions. ship, completes three-year resi-
dency in dermatology.
Dermatologic surgeon Surgical and non-surgical Same as dermatologists; many
skin treatments. also complete one- or two-year
fellowships in dermatologic
surgery. Many are members of
the American Society for
Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS).
Plastic surgeon Cosmetic or reconstructive After completion of medical
surgery. school and internship, three-year
residency in plastic surgery, often
followed by fellowships
in subspecialties.
Esthetician Facial and non-invasive, Cannot prescribe medication;
non-medical skin treatments. should not use complex
machines like lasers. Depends
on state licensing laws. All states
except Connecticut license
estheticians, although require-
ments vary.
11
skin health
skin changes
f
From the silky smoothness of a baby’s skin to the wise wrin-
kles of an 80-year-old, perhaps nothing reflects the movement
of time as well as our skin. In addition to the effects of expo-
sure—to sun, toxins, wind and dry air—changing hormones
play a major role.
Here’s a look at your skin through the ages.
Infancy and childhood. These tan. Just four in 10 adolescent girls
are the golden years of skin and wear sunscreen, while only a third
should be treated as such. By and say they limit their sun exposure.
large, children’s skin is the healthiest Teenaged girls also flock to tanning
skin professionals see. But this is booths, with nearly one in four girls 15
also the time when the greatest dam- and older saying they use tanning beds.
age—albeit unseen—may occur. Twenties and 30s. You’ve still
That’s why it’s so important to pro- got glowing skin, but the aging
tect children from the sun with the process is beginning to show. Little
appropriate clothing, hats and sun- by little, your skin begins losing
screen, as well as limiting their expo- components of connective tissue
sure to the sun during its most such as collagen, elastin and
intense hours, usually 10 a.m. to 4 hyaluronic acid, affecting skin tone.
p.m. in most parts of the country.
Your skin changes as you age. Your skin-care
products and habits should change, too.
Teenage years. As levels of Now is the time to begin a skin-care
reproductive hormones surge, par- regimen if you haven’t already.Wash
ticularly androgens, oil production your face regularly with a mild
increases and acne arrives. There’s cleanser and apply moisturizer with
no reason to suffer, though. A variety sunscreen and antioxidants daily.
of over-the-counter and prescription Pregnancy. About 90 percent of
products can keep pimples and pregnant women develop hyperpig-
blackheads in check. mentation, an overproduction of pig-
A more serious problem in teenaged ment that produces dark spots, and
12 girls, however, is their quest for a many develop melasma or chloasma,
ages & stages
dark spots on their face and arms to hormonal changes
known as the “mask of pregnancy.” that lead to higher levels
Both are related to hormones and, of androgen hormones
luckily, as hormone levels return to compared to estrogen.
normal after pregnancy, they usually African-American
disappear. women and women
of Mediterranean and Arab descent
Additionally, about 90
are more likely to have this problem.
percent of pregnant
women develop stretch You may also notice larger pores as
marks during late preg- collagen breaks down. And while
nancy as the underlying hormone therapy has its pros and
layers of their skin stretch. cons, women who take supplemen-
Using lotions or creams tal estrogen generally find their skin
containing alpha-hydroxy feels smoother and moister.
acids may help lighten
Your skin changes in other ways as
these marks, but once
you age. For instance, many elderly
you have them, they never disappear
people develop skin lesions or
completely.Trying not to gain excess
growths. Most are harmless age
weight during pregnancy is a better
spots, but some may be precursors
bet for avoiding stretch marks.
to skin cancer. Older people are also
The hormones of pregnancy can also more susceptible to certain skin
affect existing skin conditions. Your diseases such as shingles
acne and eczema may get worse, (herpes zoster), varicose
while your psoriasis may improve. veins, leg ulcers, and seb-
Perimenopause and meno- orrheic dermatitis, a skin
pause. As you move into the years rash. Other common prob-
just before and after menopause, lems include bruising and
expect to see not only the age-relat- itching, particularly as
ed changes in your skin already dis- skin thins and becomes
cussed, but also more facial hair due more fragile with age.
Q: I’ve read that birth control pills
can help prevent acne. Is this true?
Some birth control pills can help clear up or prevent acne. However, as with any med-
ication, birth control pills also can have undesirable side effects. Talk with your health
care professional about the benefits of using birth control pills for acne and ask about
any side effects or risks associated with specific brands and dosages. 13
makeup myths
history of makeup
f
From the copper and lead ore that the ancient
Egyptians used to create the world’s first cosmet-
ics to the scientifically advanced products of today
that can do everything from hide pores, smooth
complexions and turn the pale green of your eyes
a vivid shade of emerald, makeup has been an inte-
gral part of humankind for thousands of years.
Over the centuries, women used burnt matches to
darken their eyes, berries to stain their lips and
young boys’ urine to fade their freckles.They even
swallowed ox blood in some misguided attempt to
improve their complexions.
Makeup has been an integral part of
humankind for thousands of years.
Women throughout history put their follow safe manufacturing guidelines.
health at risk with many of their home- Today, the most serious injury you’re
made cosmetics. In some cultures, likely to receive from your cosmetics
for example, women used arsenic, is an irritation or a rash from using a
lead, mercury and even leeches to product that’s too harsh for your skin.
give themselves the pale appearance
deemed beautiful in the old days. Yet, despite decades of safety testing
and a safety record unparalleled in
Thankfully, we’ve come a long way
many industries, there are many
from the days of using toxic and
deadly mixtures to enhance our looks. myths circulating about the dangers
Today’s multibillion dollar cosmetic of cosmetic ingredients. Here’s an
industry must meet strict government overview of some makeup myths
regulations about what it can and and the important facts about make-
cannot include in products and must up safety you’ll want to know.
14
& facts
Makeup Myths and Facts
If you’ve shied away from using cosmetics out of fear they could present
health risks or harm your skin, or from a belief that the claims of their benefits
are only that—marketing gloss—read on.
Myth: Cosmetics are not regulated.
Fact: The Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act requires that cosmetics
and their individual ingredients must be safe, and labeling
must be truthful and not misleading.The U.S.Food and Drug Administration has
legal authority over cosmetics similar to its authority over other FDA-regulat-
ed products, such as foods, nonprescription drugs and nonprescription med-
ical devices. For instance, the FDA can take immediate action to stop the
sale of any cosmetic product that does not meet its standards.
Myth: Cosmetics contain dangerous, toxic ingredients.
Fact: FDA regulations require that all ingredients used in cosmetics
be substantiated for safety. If this isn’t done, the product’s label
must read:“WARNING:The safety of this product has not been determined.”
In the U.S., cosmetic manufacturers are required by law to establish the
safety of both finished products and their ingredients.
Myth: No independent body evaluates the safety of cos-
metic ingredients.
Fact: The cosmetic industry supports an independent panel of
world-class medical and scientific experts, the Cosmetic
Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR). This scientific body examines all
available data and assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics.
CIR publishes its findings in the peer-reviewed International Journal of
Toxicology and has restricted or banned the use of hundreds of chemical
ingredients owing to concerns over consumer safety.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration over-
sees the cosmetic industry, ensuring the safety
of cosmetic and personal-care products. 15
makeup myths
Myth: Cosmetic and personal care products often contain
substances known or suspected of causing cancer and repro-
ductive toxicity.
Fact: No credible research has ever shown that any cosmetic or
personal care products cause cancer or reproductive toxicity.
Chemicals found to be human carcinogens are not used in cosmetics. In
fact, very few reports of injury involving cosmetics have ever been reported.
Myth: Cosmetic companies can use any ingredient they
want in their products.
Fact: By law, every cosmetic on the shelf must be safe. In the U.S.,
cosmetics are regulated under the Food, Drug and Cosmetic
Act, which is enforced by the FDA. The FDA has the legal authority to reg-
ulate the safety of cosmetic products; however, it has comparatively little
need to use its authority, because cosmetics are composed of safe ingredi-
ents and because, when necessary, the cosmetics industry has acted volun-
tarily to withdraw ingredients that have been scientifically shown to have
the potential for adverse effects.
Myth: Skin-care products are all hype; soap and water
works just as well.
Fact: The science behind skin-care products has grown in leaps
and bounds over the past 20 years. Today, there is good sci-
entific evidence behind the use of such ingredients as antioxidant vitamins,
green tea polyphenols, retinoids, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and essen-
tial oils in skin-care products to minimize wrinkles, fade dark spots and
strengthen collagen.
Q: I never seem to buy the right
makeup for my face. What am I
doing wrong?
The biggest mistake women make when buying make-
up is buying something they’re not comfortable with—
either the product or the color. You have to know your
16
& facts
How to Read a Label
Confused about all the competing information on your
cosmetic and skin-care products these days? Don’t be.
Here’s our simple guide to reading cosmetic labels.
Alcohol free. In cosmetic label- Hypoallergenic cosmetics.
ing, the term “alcohol,” used by itself, Products that manufacturers claim
refers to ethyl alcohol. Cosmetic produce fewer allergic reactions than
products, including those labeled other cosmetic products. However,
“alcohol free,” may contain other there are no federal standards or def-
alcohols, such as cetyl, stearyl, initions that govern the use of the term
cetearyl or lanolin alcohol.These are or ensure that these products are less
known as fatty alcohols, and their irritating to sensitive skin than others.
effects on the skin are quite differ- Ingredients. The FDA requires
ent from those of ethyl alcohol. that cosmetic manufacturers list all
Isopropyl alcohol, which some con- ingredients on the labels of cosmetics
sumers may think of as drying the sold on a retail basis to consumers—
skin, is rarely used in cosmetics. even if the label states “For profes-
“Cruelty-free or Not Tested sional use only.” Ingredients are list-
on Animals.” Although this state- ed in order from the greatest to the
ment implies the product hasn’t least amount.
been tested on animals, at some Noncomedogenic. Suggests prod-
point most ingredients have been ucts do not contain common pore-clog-
tested on animals. Look for the ging ingredients that could result in acne.
words “no new testing,” or “not cur-
rently tested.” The FDA also notes
Shelf-life (expiration date).The
amount of time for which a product
that there is no legal definition for
is good under normal conditions of
these terms.
storage and use. Storing cosmetics
Fragrance free. Implies that a in damp, warm places like a bath-
product has no perceptible odor. room can lead to earlier expiration.
own comfort level with color and be able to use what you purchase. The universal rule
when it comes to using makeup is that less is more and layering is better. So blend and
pat makeup onto different areas of your skin so the beauty of your skin can show through.
When you’re trying new things, just try one or two at a time. For instance, stick with neutral
colors and buy a more vibrant lipstick or an eye shadow with more sparkle. And go for
balance: if you’re being dramatic on the eyes, go paler on the lips.
17
makeup
ingredients
j
Just what do all those acids, vitamins, antioxidants,
herbs and other fancy ingredients in today’s skin-care
products and makeup actually do? Here’s a basic
primer:
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA).
The introduction of alpha-hydroxy
Broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Effective against the damaging effects
acids in the early 1990s revolution- of both UVA and UVB rays.
ized the skin care industry. These Co-enzyme Q10. Another impor-
ingredients, which include glycolic, tant antioxidant, coQ10 is essential
lactic, tartaric and citric to power the machinery of
acids, are naturally occur- cells. Levels drop as we
ring acids in fruits and age, particularly in the skin,
milk used to help erase affecting your ability to
fine lines, age spots and produce collagen, elastin
even out skin tone. and other skin factors.
Alpha-lipoic acid. That’s why it’s often found
This antioxidant protects against the in regenerating and repair products.
damage from free radicals, particular- Hydroquinone. This ingredient
ly in conjunction with other antioxi- bleaches age spots or dark pigmen-
dants and polyphenols. tation.
Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic Nanoemulsion. New technology
acid). This acid exfoliates skin, that enables manufacturers to incor-
improving texture and color, and porate delicate and highly effective
helps fight acne by clearing out oil- ingredients into more elegant and
laden hair follicles. It’s less irritating refined formulations used in cosmetic
than AHA but provides some of the products.
same benefits.
Q: How can I find out more about an
ingredient listed for a cosmetic product?
See the International Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, published by
the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The directory is
available at many public libraries or you can order a copy at
18 www.ctfa.org.
